~/copypasta/gunfortheprinter.odt but it’s a JTAG header for the vacuum

I tacked a CT onto my sprinkler esp so the Mrs can be certain she turned everything off, so I’ve been living with this

I have 3 Kauf RGB switches that I use for garage door interfaces spread through the house. Off means closed, orange means reed switch and range sensor don’t agree (moving), white means open, red means fail to close.

The little corner light is for the pedestrian door.

https://kaufha.com/srf10/

The garage door itself has a konnected gdo.

https://konnected.io/products/smart-garage-door-opener

Spiders like to obscure the range sensor ~twice a year, and it probably best practice to not have all the inputs coming from one device. One day I’ll move the reed switch to the i4 dc shelly that reads the door switches. Maybe try ratgdo, the clone/knockoff I bought was not very reliable.

https://us.shelly.com/products/shelly-plus-i4-dc

https://konnected.io/products/contact-sensor-recessed-magnetic-for-doors-or-windows

That is a weird combo. And designed to lock you into their ecosystem. Absolutely proprietary.

https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/bthome-door-contact-with-tempreture-and-humidiy-sensor

This one runs BTHome, part of the Open Home Foundation. I have two mmWave presence sensors from the same company. They offer tasmota and esphome firmwares for them, I chose ESPHome. It’s been great.

Probably every 2 months. When I have a day off work with nothing to do. I have a few VMs that are more fragile than I want to admit and if something breaks I want to have time to tinker instead of just restoring a backup.

Esphome based, so the learning curve it kinda steep of you just want a simple on/off bulb BUT it will open your eyes to what’s possible. This also avoids zigbee and z-wave. The state of those Z radios is so bad that Home Assistant released their own.

https://www.pentestpartners.com/security-blog/z-shave-exploiting-z-wave-downgrade-attacks/

I really hope the current production isn’t vulnerable to an 8 year old exploit.

https://github.com/advplyr/audiobookshelf

I manually grab what I want from mam

Some reolink cameras (B800 for sure) scramble the encoding to lock them to reolink NVRs. I used two of them with frigate by running neolink because fuck vendor lock in

https://github.com/QuantumEntangledAndy/neolink

I had problems with the 0.6.x series but 0.5.18 ran well enough. I abandoned those cams because they would occasionally switch to sending static to frigate and locking it down.

There is a dlna server but it has “totally unintentional” memory leaks that cause it to crash after a few days and they refuse to fix.

Be sure to use archival grade paper!

I built this system for my mother with an old business pc running frigate. I used an old wifi router with ap mode available in the firmware that is only for the cameras. It’s a simple way to make sure the cameras won’t have internet access without relying on whatever router they may have. I added a second Ethernet port to the business PC because I had the parts, but for one or two cams you could theoretically do all over wifi. Install wireguard so you can manage it remotely. Then decide if you want to bother forwarding the ports and getting a domain setup, or if local only viewing is good enough.

For cameras, I used these amcrest ASH22-W which are good enough for the price. 1080p for $33

https://www.ebay.com/itm/314660333877

One thing to remember with these cameras- mounting them high gives you a bigger field of view, wipes out any possibilities of identification. The frigate models also don’t do as well. Doorbell cameras are better for that.

I’d see if your brand offers that option, and try and retrofit the OEM parts. It’s often the matter of cutting an extra hole or two and wiring it up to your controller. The tub will likely have indentations to make room for the part, even if that model doesn’t include the feature.

This is a whirlpool, Hotpoint, KitchenAid, etc door opener

https://www.hotpoint.co.uk/door-opening-system-j00532596/p

If that’s a dead end, maybe look at a wax motor. They are very cheap, easy to control, compact, and high force. Only problem is, the stroke is only . 25 inches, some up to . 5 inches. There is enough force that you could make a lever.

I have a Shelly plug that is programmed internally to turn itself on if off for 20 seconds. Home assistant turns the plug off for 10 seconds if curl ip.me fails for 15 minutes.

My modem is plugged into that.

I’ve never had a router or firewall crash if I wasn’t fucking with it and did something stupid ill-advised, so I don’t try that kind of stuff unless I’m home.

The headline is a touch sensational- nine of them are bare headers on the motherboard for the front of the case. The I/O shield ‘only’ has 13 type A and three type C.

To piggyback on the permissions hissy fit-

My aar stack, openmediavault, and transmission stack have different usernames mapped to the same uid and it is a pain in the ass. I “fixed it” by making a NAS group that catches them all, but by “fixed it” I really mean “got it working”

So be aware of what uid will own a file and maybe change it to a uid in the 1100+ range to make NFS easier in the future.

If you’re in the omada ecosystem, a one-off unifi device is going to frustrate you. They’re trying to wrangle you into buying shit like this: https://store.ui.com/us/en/products/up-floodlight

Which part is slow? I run a software controller in a proxmox VM and it is plenty quick. My router is an opnsense vm and has 8 ryzen 7700x threads assigned to it, so no problems there 😁

I keep my Linux ISOs on mergerfs over NFS via open media vault. All of them are easily replaced so I don’t bother backing them up.

Nextcloud, paperless, and photos get their whole image backed up on proxmox local, and a remote PBS. I’m the only user so the sizes are quite manageable.