

It was the 3TB ST3000DM001 that was the really terrible one.
(so bad it has its own Wikipedia page)


It was the 3TB ST3000DM001 that was the really terrible one.
(so bad it has its own Wikipedia page)


Fair point. Games clearly need to start decoupling the UI scale/resolution from the general screen resolution.
In a somewhat parallel issue, I’ve found that playing games on the couch (usually with Steam in-home streaming, from a PC elsewhere in the house) I have to reduce the resolution because the game’s UI is far too small at TV-watching differences.


There are two kinds of people who would like a refreshed Steam Deck, in my experience:
People who seem to think it needs to be faster. Since it appears to be crafted to provide suitable performance for the 720p display it has (which I don’t personally think needs to be changed, considering the whole “portable” use case), this seems to just be a “bigger number better” argument and those people should probably go out and buy a Lenovo Legion / ROG Ally / whatever.
People who are otherwise happy, but think it should have a newer, more efficient processor to get longer battery life, and make less heat/noise in the process. There’s a measurable gulf between the current Zen2/RDNA2 CPU and a theoretical modern Zen5/RDNA3.5 (or even RDNA4) model in that regard; it could be tuned to deliver roughly the same performance as the original (or a little more, for the handful of games that tend to miss their performance target slightly) but deliver longer battery life.
We got a hint at 2) with the OLED model’s CPU using a newer manufacturing process improving thermals and battery life (of course it did also have a bigger battery). I think the number of people willing to pay a bit extra for what could be an even larger improvement in that area is probably more than some would like to admit.
(I personally fit in that latter category. Considering a full work day including a public transport commute and lunch break, not a whole lot of extra battery could well be the difference between having to carry a charger and not)


I’m considering a similar one.
Our kitchen ceiling lights now have a Shelly relay in their circuit. I’m considering a smart bulb in the rangehood - unusually, it fits a full-size A60/B22 bulb, so basically any standard smart lighting is an option - so it can be synced with the rest of the kitchen lights.
Also who wouldn’t want to be able to have green light while cooking?


It always seemed like an amazing way to speed-run repetitive strain injury to me.
Anything that requires that level of precision but offers basically zero range of motion just seems to force unnatural levels of tension in every muscle in your hand and wrist.
The things cause me agonising wrist pain within minutes of use, not something I’ve experienced with any modern (ie, larger than the postage stamp sizes of old) touchpad.
Good riddance.
Generally, you just need to export the pool with zpool export zfspool1, then import again with zpool import -d /dev/disk/by-id zfspool1.
I believe it should stick after that.
Whether that will apply in its current degrated state I couldn’t say.
While I have a personal general rule against backing electronics on Kickstarter and would likely wait for it to be available at retail, I wouldn’t necessarily immediately discount this one.
It’s probably worth noting - mentioned in Jeff Geerling’s video - they had a MOQ of 1500 on the metal case, which likely forced them to be significantly further through the process than a lot of Kickstarters are at launch.


Indeed, you will note that they carefully chose the moniker “Daily Active Uniques” and not “Daily Active Users”.
I think that speaks volumes, as humans are definitely harder to retain.
At work we use the NexDock for that purpose (for anything that doesn’t have proper Ethernet remote management, at least). It’s relatively convenient that it’s self-powered and self-contained, basically a laptop minus the computer part.
(Conveniently, I see this is also a new model that replaces the awkward mini-HDMI port with a proper full-size one)
If you need VGA, you will have to buy an active VGA-to-HDMI dongle. They’re cheap (down to about $10-15 these days) and seem to work just fine.
Should the preference be to use a laptop you already own, you’ve got a few options. Either an IP KVM like the JetKVM, GL.iNet Comet, NanoKVM, etc, or a USB one such as the Openterface.
(Note that a couple of those links are pre-orders or otherwise not immediately available, make sure you do your research)
All of these things are fairly comprehensively reviewed by tech-focused Youtube channels, just gotta pick your favourite form factor.