InEnduringGrowStrong

I use this one:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.orrs.deliveries

It can usually get the status of most courriers unless they’re actively hostile against API/scraping.
Worst case you can still track status manually, or open the webpage.
It doesn’t track payment, but I don’t usually have a tracking number before paying.
I think you could technically add your own custom status entry.
I keep them as active until shipped and verified after which I mark them as completed.

Works well enough for my needs.

You can use an adapter just fine.
Or use a 5.5" drive caddy, that’s just a little drawer that slides in and out.
Real question is it you have enough SATA connectors available.

I game in a VM with near baremetal performance.
I use PCI passtgrough do pass the whole GPU into the guest.
I don’t use a Desktop Environment in the host though (proxmox)

Warrantied drives still fail, they just happen to ship you a replacement.

Commercial drive trashing solutions are basically a smaller, fancier version of the mechanism in a log splitter.
You could probably rig a sketchy drive wedge/bending thing with a pump jack rather easily.
Wear PPE.

The odds of someone taking a failed drive and transplanting the platters to a working drive is pretty low to begin with.

Me? I don’t have tons of drives to destroy, so I just unscrew the thing, get the platters out and smash those.

Your examples seem vaguely related to home automation, so maybe they’re already in Home Assistant.
https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/

It has a bunch of sensors and media related integrations. You can also add custom REST API queries.

For me, Plex would often end up having audio drift lag and it was annoying as fuck. It’d start fine, then the lag would gradually increase until you changed encoding back and forth, then gradually increase again.
Jellyfin just works.
That was enough to get me to switch and not look back. I’m also rid of the bullshit plex login that I never cared for, and also of their push for whatever “recommended” stuff is supposed to be about.

Make sure you test this from outside your network and not simply by using the public IP, but from inside your LAN. Odds are your ISP modem doesn’t support NAT loopback (also known as NAT hairpin).

So, A1/A2 is yet another scale they invented because, why not.
A2 is supposed to have more IOPS than A1, although in benchmarks, some A1s perform better.
I wouldn’t worry too much about it tbh.

So, the SD Association is absolutely fucking insane when it comes to giving labels to literally anything.

The Steam Deck supports UHS-1 microSD cards.
That’s the name of the bus. There’salso UHS-2 and UHS-3, but they’re backwards compatible with UHS-1, so that’s whatever.

Speeds…
Some cards used speed “classes”, like Class 10…
There’s also U1 or U3 speeds (which is a speed rating independent of the bus. (A U3 cards is probably a UHS-1 card.
Some have a speed rated with a V, like V10, V30, etc.
They often have multiple labels too.
These can all be used to label the speed of a UHS-1 card:
UHS Speed Class

• U1: 10 MB/s minimum write speed.
• U3: 30 MB/s minimum write speed.

Video Speed Class

• V6: 6 MB/s minimum write speed.
• V10: 10 MB/s minimum write speed.
• V30: 30 MB/s minimum write speed.
• V60: 60 MB/s minimum write speed.
• V90: 90 MB/s minimum write speed.

Class 10

• Class 10: 10 MB/s minimum write speed (legacy).

Anyway, U3 is basically the same as a V30.
U3/V30 would be the minimum I’d get for the Deck. Price being the deciding factor for the rest.
I don’t really care if the card ever fails, so brand was (mostly) irrelevant in my choice.

I forgot to mention Ascent which is one of my favorites. I played it early 2024, which feels ages ago It’s a cyberpunk twin stick shooter RPG.
It was really fun.

It’s also one of the games for which I tweaked my SteamDeck controls a lot.
I vaguely remember the right stick “snapping” too much for my tastes to the horizontal/vertical cross, which went completely away when I mapped it to a fake keyboard/mouse input instead.

2024? Lots of different titles that I played for a while then moved on.
Helldivers 2 was nice enough, I’ve also played a lot of Slay the Spire and Deep Rock Galactic Survivor.

Most surprising (to me)… I got Moonstone Island on a whim.
It’s usually not a game I’d get, but id that was fun, it’s kind of a mix of Stardew Valley, with bits of Pokémon and Slay the Spire.

Good question, I’d guess it would be the closest to the center of whichever zone.
I haven’t tested them, but if they work, it’d be easier to use non circular zones than deal with multiple overlapping ones.

I get what you mean and yea I don’t think you can easily use groups for that.
Zones have a several things going on.
In no particular order:

1. A zone’s state is the number of people in it.
2. Zones can be used as enter/leave triggers in automations.
3. A person’s state becomes the name of the zone when they’re in them.

Making a mock entity for #1 is easy enough, a helper number thing whose state is the sum of the group members’ states.
The other stuff is more complicated.
#2… Might be easier to add the different zones as multiple triggers, which might be a pain to manage. But then, I assume you’d also want to ignore whenever someone moves between zones in that same group.
#3… idk, if it’s just for displaying purposes in that person’s “badge” thing, just use the same display name for all zones in group. If it’s for use in an automation, then you probably need to duplicate everything again.

Might be easier to implement polygonal zones than group normal ones.

I think nodered might already have that geofencing feature.

There’s a bit of discussion in here: https://github.com/home-assistant/architecture/discussions/1014

Depends on the game a lot.
Sometimes it’s just ABXY buttons where I don’t wanna move my thumb off the right joystick.
Sometimes, one paddle activates a layer shift to have more mappings.
Like if a game has more controls than you could fit, layers can help extend the possibilities and paddles area decent way of activating them.
If a game is heavy on QTEs, like spam X really fast to do something, I might just map a paddle to enable a layer shift that turbo spams the other button.

Yea, it’s not the first time I’ve seen this discussion either.
I don’t wanna seem like I’m not believing you or belittling your experience, I just find it weird that we (we, users, as a whole, not just you and I) have such wildly different experiences with it.

As is, I have a vastly better experience with my own nextcloud than with corporate’s onedrive, with more stuff on mine.

Wish I knew why it’s so inconsistent.
Even though my nextcloud experience is fine, I know plenty of people with the opposite.

Legit have had none of these issues.
I do get a notification once in a while if I modify a picture fast enough, like a quick crop and it’s still uploading. Like snap pic and edit within the same 5 seconds or so.
Basically just a: “there are multiple versions of the same file (which is true), which one do you wanna keep”.

Then again mine is running on a pretty beefy server which might hide issues rooted in performance.
I remember it being hell when I was running it on a RPi.

Yea only times I’ve had issues is if I run out of space allocated to the container that runs it.
I currently have 16GB of phone uploads and 540G overall, it works fine

Nextcloud’s instant upload feature?
Whenever I take a picture or screenshot it’s uploaded there.

Nextcloud might be overkill if that’s the only feature you need. I’ve never used the more involved stuff like chat or document editing, just sync.

Then don’t issue a takedown request at the registrar.

I think the only way I’d ever give it another shot is if there was a mod that deleted most dialogue and story and just skipped from minigame to minigame without context.
Maybe.

I vaguely remember genociding squirrels with a flame thrower…