Ha, I just came here to post this! It’s seriously cool, and the Navajo’s history in the semiconductor industry is something I never knew about.

I would love a rug like that.

You know that you don’t have to declare copyright in every comment you make, yeah? All I can think of is the "Tryin’ to make a change :-/" SMS signature meme.

Counterpoint: a used PS5 will probably run $450, and including the cost of a TV isn’t fair because basically everybody already has one (you’d have to factor in the cost of a monitor too if you want a fair comparison).

Building a new PC is likely to be less cost effective if you only plan to use it for games, and if you’re building your first PC and can’t carry over components like storage and the chassis. The initial investment will pay off in the future, but not everyone has $800 to throw into a PC all at once.

Finally, saying that a mainline console like the PS5 will be “trash” in 5 years is objectively wrong. Modern consoles are often supported for 7-8+ years, and even after that point, they will continue to play all the games they did before.

I agree that a PC is generally a better investment than a console like the PS5. But you shouldn’t make that argument by being disingenuous or exaggerating the downsides of what you’re arguing against.

Pretty stupid move on Bethesda’s part, since they’re well aware of how mods are the only reason their ancient games still get so much attention. Hell, if it wasn’t for the Unofficial Patches, many of their games would be unplayable.

Hmm, I would only purchase them as a third (or more) layer of redundancy, or maybe for storing things like ripped media that could just be re-ripped (or re-torrented) should the drives fail. I would not trust them for anything important since you have no idea what kind of environment they were in for all those years.

That was just part of it. The entire tech sector massively retracted after the boom it saw during COVID, which is also responsible for the sudden enshittification of so many different products/services all at once.

Personally, I haven’t run into a situation where I could only configure something via UI. There’s always been an option to toggle between a UI editor, and just a text editor for the appropriate YAML. There could be exceptions that I haven’t encountered, but they’re definitely few and far between.

To be fair, I’m guessing the majority of Pi’s are used headless anyway. Plus even the older Optiplexes have DVI, which is just HDMI without the audio or fancy stuff like ARC. Won’t be getting 4K or anything, but still a very good video output and IMO adequate for almost all use cases.

Personally, I have a very old Kindle Fire mounted to the wall that I set to never go to sleep. Its still powerful enough to run a web browser to access the HA interface, so it’s a good use of tech that would otherwise be sitting in the obsolete pile. However, it is just powered with a USB cable hanging across the wall, so not super elegant.

That’s only if you want to watch it outside your home network, and either way I would recommend not just opening a port to the world like that. I’d say to use Tailscale (which is trivially easy to install) for remote viewing.

Yes, because streaming boxes can be upgraded independently of the TV and so you can always have hardware that’s actively supported. My old Roku 3 was still getting updates as of a few years ago, while my “smart” TV from 2015 stopped getting security updates long ago.

Personally, I used TrueNAS Core (known as simply FreeNAS at the time) for my very first NAS setup knowing nothing about BSD-based systems, and it’s been pretty much fine. It has ZFS which is absolutely desirable for a NAS that you store important things on, and It has some quirks but Ive been able to accomplish everything I’ve wanted to with it just by looking up the miriad of guides available. Not saying it’s better than the alternatives, just sharing my personal experience.

However, if you’ve already got OMV setup and it’s working for you so far, I would stick with it. I believe you could always import your drives into another NAS system if you decide to move later, so why fix what isn’t broken?

If you’re actually ripping bluerays, I would highly recommend using MakeMKV. It’s technically paid software but while it’s in beta you can can a free license key from their forums. BluRays can be formatted oddly and include a bunch of crap you probably don’t want (preroll ads, etc), so when I tried to rip one with jusy ffmpeg it was a pain, but MakeMKV deals with most of that for you and gets a 1-to-1 copy of the movie files + anything like captions and alternate audip tracks.

You aren’t beholden to any other countries laws, but such domains are the property of their respective countries and their usaging can be conditional and revoked at any time (see what happened recently with .ml domains). Personally I use a .xyz domain because it’s also very cheap, although I’ve heard that it can make you appear more “suspicious” to antivirus companies and such.

While all this is true, unfortunately not many devices support swappable 18650s, either they have swappable AA/AAA or have built-in 18650s that would require disassembly to replace. However, if you CAN find a device with swappable 18650s (the only ones I’ve found so far are flashlights) they’re absolutely great!

I really don’t get the hate for it. In an FPS for example, it allows you to quickly aim between far-apart targets by moving the mouse fast, and then home in on them by moving the mouse slow. The same principle applies to pretty much anything that needs accurate, non-consistantly-spaced clicks.

How does it reduce accuracy? It allows you to make very precise movements if you move the mouse slowly, but make large movements very quickly by flicking the mouse instead of needing to pick it up and move it multiple times.

I’ve been wanting to do this for awhile after having problems with the cooling coils freezing over. My question is, what sensor would you use for this? A battery-powered one would need to be recharged and a wire running into the fridge would break the seal

If having them all raise/lower the same is unrealistic, maybe you could make a script that starts each one moving with a delay to create a staggered effect? It would still look visually pleasant IMO without the difficulty of syncing up different motors.