Ok. Found some DNS settings on my router, and fixed the internal domain name “problem” but it’s still only internal. If I set my public IP(internally) it doesn’t connect.

I can connect to an internal computer from external, even though the client says “not ready”.

I cannot connect from internal to external computer. Instantly shows “remote desktop is offline”

This leads me to think that somehow I have something wrong in router settings, or I have a security feature blocking something. I just don’t know enough about routing to know where to look.

I got past the key mismatch internally. Maybe it was blank spaces.idk.

But still having issues externally. Just doesn’t connect for some reason, though I’ve confirmed all the ports are open. :/

It seems I may have “fixed”(?) One problem, as internal network connections succeed now (same key, same settings, just restarted the containers a few times and let it sit?)

External connections still show the same. :/

Second note, the metal pipe has to be continuously metal from at minimum where it enters the house, don’t trust that if you see a metal water pipe (or drain pipe) that it’s grounded.

Home assistant, and frigate. Along with whatever type of smart lock you choose (even building one with esphome, diy version)

Sounds like a market niche, you could start it up, call it something like “macrosoft”. … then start making scripts that do the work for the user, don’t release the scripts because people pay for them. Let this go on for many years and you find yourself shoving “AI” down your users throats and screenshotting their desktop without explicit permission…

Handle is much different than efficiently calculate.

Just make sure they have substreams and get a coral (or GPU) for detection. Then a pi could probably handle it.

I have enough processing to do it all on CPU (8 cams+doorbell) but it ramps up the power usage, so it was better to use the gpu I already had for transcoding, as detection.

Without you can still just record and overwrite. Not that it’s extremely useful without detection and notifications.

Yes, the issue I have with no sub stream (only on the doorbell) is that it uses more processing for detection on such a large resolution.

The doorbell does, except for no sub stream. And the only way for mine to be setup is their bs app.

I should’ve looked better when buying, but alas. I have this one and I’m lazy.

I have a few. Some try and call home (mostly the doorbell, every 10s). The others are easy to setup and run with frigate.

There are screw together butt connectors, in my experience have a more solid connection than the crimp style as far as pullout is concerned. https://www.posi-products.com/index.html

~600W. 2 machines: Dell 730 8 disks running multiple Minecraft servers. Supermicro 16 disks in raid 10 running multiple VM for various functions. All on a 6kva ups (overkill I know)

Luckily I have a large solar array.

I’m talking full diy. It’s simple enough.

I’d say the probe would just need to be higher than the merge point of the ducts. I can’t imagine that’d be 5m.

You can get k type thermocouples with 2+m cables fairly cheaply. And esphome has a handy guide on how to setup a thermocouple input. https://esphome.io/components/sensor/max6675.html

Shove a thermocouple up the duct. When neighbor is cooking it will likely affect the temperature in the duct noticably. Use that as your fan trigger.

I personally like the circuit setup boards. Running an esp32 with esphome. Can be configured for anything you want them to do. On virtually any size or voltage system.

I setup up one system on an industrial 500A 3ph 480V site to track phase imbalance and trigger balancing loads.

The amplifier has 7 connections. Input+ Input- Shutdown Power Ground Speaker out+ Speaker out-

You’ll have to cut or solder the wires to the original speaker, then solder wires or pins to the amplifier,

It’s not extremely difficult, but daunting if you’ve not done it before.

If you want to try, and need a lifeline feel free to DM me

My solution to the same problem was to disassemble the echo. Take the speaker output and wire it to a cheap amplifier (adafruit pam8302), and then wire that to a larger speaker in a 3d printed enclosure.

Only thing I wish I did was wire the shutdown pin to one of the extra pins on the echo to turn off the amplifier when nothing is being sent to the speaker.

Audiobookshelf claims to have ebook support. I only use it for audio books so I cannot say whether it’s good for that or not.

It works great for the audio books.

I built my own with an esp32 and esphome.

Esp32 runs a relay board which switches the 24v to my sprinkler valves.