Then change it Ian!

The only other thing that I know also is needed is case folding

If there are other features needed I don’t know about them

I agree with all of your points. But to answer your question regarding charging.

You can buy joy con chargers, I’ve seen them in stores, they have like a whole stand that also charges your joycon. There are various licensed and unlicensed designs like this. Alternatively I’ve seen on Ali express, just a cable that splits into two, and can connect to the bottom of the joycon rail, just where the connector is, and can be plugged into a USB-a port.

Another official way to charge them is they in I think only released in Japan, as an arms 2 accessories? I may be wrong pulling this from memory and I don’t play arms. They sold joycon aa battery packs. Which were joycon grips, with two aa batteries making them thicker, and also a strap on them.

Lastly Nintendo announced before the switch came out, a charging grip for the joy cons. Like the one that was included with the switch, but it also had a battery that could let you play for even longer, and charge via USB-c. I don’t think this was ever released, I misunderstood and thought my release day switch would come with this product, so I was sad to see the grip that came with the switch was only a plastic holder. But I can wager a guess that some other 3. Party accessories maker has released either a licensed charging grip or an unlicensed one.

I haven’t seen it, but IMO the best product for me, if I was in a situation where I wanted to use the joycons exclusively on a non switch device. I’d like to have something similar to the official joycon straps, but it had a USB-c port on them for charging.

The steam controller 1 already has wifi, its not the only controller that does this, the nvidia shield controller also does. The standard these and a very few other controllers use is called wifi direct, and basically uses an adhoc network to connect. This is seamless for the user.

I am running everything at lowest settings, except shadows which are the second lowest setting, and I am using TAA (or was it SMAA I don’t remember) and I am using a replacement DLL file that replaces the DLSS with AMD FSR 2.2.1, FSR is set to scale 1.5 (means the internal resolution is rendered at 75% of native resolution, but I added AntiAliasing before FSR)

I also lock the game to 30fps,

This should not run at max power draw from the system on a chip, I’d rather prefer 15-30% more battery life than fancier graphics.

I wish I could get medium textures, but at least while using FSR (tried with FSR1 also) there is not enough VRAM on the steamdeck to fit medium textures. I think when I tested medium textures, a few textures suddenly popped up to medium quality, but most just stayed at low.

I’ve only played through Act1, just treated it as a tutorial with an origin character, and now I am playing through Act1 again with a custom character. (I borrowed a friends GOG version, but now I bought the game on steam, and I copied over my GOG saves to my desktop but I chose not to put them back on the steam deck in the steam versions wine prefix)

I hope they improve the CPU usage issues in Act 3 before I get there. I suspect it’s mostly unfixable, maybe I will need to play the game at 20 or 25 fps in Act 3, I don’t know. I am in no hurry to beat the game, I am a family guy and I just get to play a bit here and a bit there, so the steam deck’s sleep function is a god GabeN send. I would not be able to play a game like this at this point in my life if it were not for that, and it was the main reason I bought a steam deck.